|
BASEBOARDS
In this section I will be concentrate on the main type of baseboard
The traditional flat board
FLAT BOARD CONSTRUCTION
For the beginner the flat board is often the deemed the easiest way of getting your layout down and running.
Start by taking your layout plan and make a full size tracing copy of it, this will give you the size of board you will require. Lay your plan on the board and mark the position of any turnouts or signals you will want to automate or any gradients you intend to manufacture from the base itself. Drill pilot holes to mark the underneath of the board, this is so that any cross bracing can be positioned away from the site of any point motors or wire holes. Next measure and mark the positions of all cross braces on the long frame timbers as shown in fig 1.
Either staggered butt joints or half lap joints can be used for the cross bracing but butt jointing is easiest and less time consuming. Assemble your framework to exactly the dimensions of your baseboard using 4x2 planed timbers ensuring all corners are square and flat. Then before fixing the board to the frame, make your cuts for any gradients planned in the baseboard itself (see gradients section further on in this page)
You are now ready to screw your board down to the frame work. Firstly mark a line 1 inch inside the perimeter of you board then mark, drill and countersink screw holes at 9 inch intervals along this line. Next measure and mark the positions of the cross bracing and any centre longitudinal timbers and again mark, drill and countersink screw holes making sure none correspond to any track bed as sods law will dictate that a track pin hole will fall directly over a screw head! With all screw holes finished smear a layer of PVA woodworking glue on the upper side of the framework and gently lower the baseboard onto it, you may need the help of another person here as baseboards can be quite heavy. When you are satisfied that everything is in line carefully screw down the board using No 5 countersunk wood screws. Next carefully turn the board on its edge and wipe any excess glue from beneath the board. You may find it easier at this stage to drill wire conduits in the cross bracing (as shown in fig 3.) to prevent any remote control or power wires hanging down or becoming trapped.
SUPPORTING YOUR BASEBOARDS
Cheap plastic woodworking trestles are an ideal way of supporting your layout if it has to be put away at the end of the day but for permanent layouts the simplest way of support is to use a baton fixed along one wall. Then attach legs to one side of your layout and the other side screw to the wall baton. The safest way to fix legs to your layout is to use coach bolts drilled through both the leg and the framework (as shown in fig 4.)
4”x 4” timber is more than adequate for leg support
GRADIENTS
If you have planned any gradients on your layout to raise the track to another level you should aim to build them at the baseboard level. A cheap and easy way to start any incline is to cut a thin tongue one and a half times the total track width wide. (see fig 2.) This can then be packed up using small off cuts of wood to the required gradient pitch as shown. This can then be butt jointed to the upper level using thin dowel to make a smooth straight incline. Don’t worry about any packing sticking out as these will be covered by any retaining walls or scenery at a later stage.
|
|
